Frequently Asked Questions


Faux Finishing Most Frequently Asked Questions
   
1. Can I use the paint currently on my wall or do I have to use Special Effects Base Coat?
  It is recommended that you use a wall freshly painted with McCloskey Special Effects Base Coat. Special Effects Base Coat is formulated to provide the best base for the Special Effects Glazes, the color combinations are shown on the chip rack, and it maximizes the working time (open time) of the glazes. However, if the walls have been recently painted with a satin or semi-gloss (not a flat or a gloss) latex paint, and if they are clean and in good shape, then you can use the current paint on the wall.
2. Can Special Effects be applied over wallpaper or paneling?
  Generally, we don't recommend painting at all over wallpaper. However, if the wallpaper is tightly adhering to the wall, prime first with an oil primer and then use Special Effects Base Coat. For paneling, ensure that it is clean and in good shape. If the paneling is too smooth, it will not accept the Base Coat paint. You can use a bonding primer to help in this situation or use a fine grade sandpaper and lightly sand the surface.
3. Can Special Effects be used on exterior surfaces?
  Special Effects is for interior use only. Neither the Base Coat nor the glazes are designed for outdoor use.
4. Can Special Effects be used on cabinets?
  If the surface is clean, and will accept the Base Coat paint, you can use the Special Effects line of products. However, after allowing the paint to cure for three to seven days, you should protect the finished surface with a clear latex protector in your choice of sheens.
5. If I change my mind, can the Special Effects glazes be painted over?
Yes, when you are ready to change your decor, the Special Effects glazes can be painted over using a primer and a premium grade of interior latex paint.
6. What do I do if the edges begin to dry on the glaze before I'm done creating the effect? What do I do if the edges begin to dry on the glaze before I'm done creating the effect?
Special Effects Clear Mixing Glaze will reactivate the glazes. Simply blot on the Clear Glaze with a clean sponge or damp rag on the edge to rewet the glaze and continue working.
7. What if I want a different color glaze than is offered?
  You can create your own colored glazes by mixing an interior latex paint with the Special Effects Clear Mixing Glaze. The ratio starts at four parts glaze to one part paint. For a more translucent effect, use up to eight parts glaze to one part paint.
8. How long does the Base Coat need to dry before I can start applying glazes? Does the Base Coat need to dry thoroughly?
  Allow at least 4 hours, preferably overnight, before applying glazes. If it is very humid, or very cool, it may take a bit longer to dry. The Base Coat should be thoroughly dry before applying glaze.
9. I'm worried about using the glazes in high-traffic areas like hallways. What can I do to protect my finish?
  Wait a few days for the finish to fully dry. Then apply Special Effects Clear Coat over the top. It is especially important to seal the Porcelain and Weathered Crackle effects in high-traffic areas. Wait three to seven days before applying the Clear Coat
10. Why was I told to practice on cardboard or a practice board?
  Decorative painting is as much an art as it is a science. The overall look will depend on the technique you use. Practicing on cardboard gives you a chance to change your mind about color combinations, the amount of glaze to apply and how to use the applicators. You can easily move the finished cardboard around your room to see how your room's light affects the look in a larger sample than the chip.
11. What is the Open Time for the Glazes?
  Open time or working time refers to the length of time that the glazes will stay workable (wet) before they start to dry. It is important that the glazes have a long open time, or they will dry before you are done creating your effect. For doing negative techniques over large areas, you will want to divide the wall into manageable sections, about three to four feet in width. The Translucent Color, Opal and Pearl Glazes will stay open for about 45 minutes. The Metals will stay open for about 30 minutes, except for the Pewter, which has an open time of about 5 minutes. To increase the open time of the glazes, you can add some Clear Mixing Glaze.
12. What is the difference between a positive (additive), and a negative (subtractive) technique?
  A positive (sometimes called additive) technique is where you add glaze to the surface with your applicator. A negative (sometimes called subtractive) technique is where you apply a thin layer of glaze to the surface with a roller or brush, and then remove the glaze with your applicator. The positive techniques show more of the original Base Coat color, while the negative techniques show more of the glaze color.
13. Are the glazes safe for use in kid's areas?
  The glazes are non-toxic. The glazes and the latex Base Coat are all easy to clean up with soap and water
14. How do I choose good color combinations?
  Start with the color chips on the Special Effects Design Center. Look at the samples of different color combinations and different effects. Generally, for a more dramatic effect, use a darker colored glaze over a light Base Coat. For a softer look, use similar Base Coat and glaze colors. Do a sample test on a practice board to confirm your color choices before starting your wall.
15. How can I remove dried glaze?
  Like any other latex paint product, if caught soon enough (within the first hour) it may be washed off using a solution of 1-cup ammonia and gallon of water. If the glaze has dried, Goof Off is an excellent product for removal of dried latex products. (Always test a spot for color change first.)
16. Should I apply a clear protective finish over my faux technique?
  When faux techniques are done on a surface or area where there will be high traffic or abrasion levels, a clear protective coat such as Special Effects Clear Coat is generally a good idea. For applying over larger surfaces, rollers and pad applicators will help speed up the application time. If rolling the surface, use a short nap cover and make sure to proceed slowly so as to not produce air bubbles. Pad applicators work well for larger surfaces and won't create air bubbles as easily. When applying to small surfaces, a brush is usually sufficient. Be sure to use a non-yellowing clear coat.
17. How do I make the effect less dramatic?
  Blend or soften the edges using a softening brush or dry cheesecloth and gently brush over the wet surface. You can also use a damp sponge to pounce on the surface lightly.
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Lime Washing
A heavier, lightly textured, medium that can be combined with many different techniques.
   
1. How do I make a cloud effect?
  First, apply a Base Coat in a light blue. Allow Base Coat to dry overnight. Begin by working the Lime Wash with random "X" patterns of the brush. Work each brushful over the entire surface until the brush is dry. Soften with cheesecloth before dry. Make sure to work quickly as Lime Wash does dry rapidly.
2. Can I combine Lime Wash with Glaze to make a colored Lime Wash?
  Yes, just be aware that when glaze is mixed into Lime Wash, the heavy paste like consistency will be altered. This may change an effect where three-dimensional characteristics are desired. For most applications, colors are left separate when washed onto a surface.
3. Can I combine Lime Wash with other faux finishes?
  Sponging and Lime Wash is a very popular combination when used with contrasting darker colors on the same surface. Combining Lime Wash with Stippling, or Colorwashing, is also popular.
4. Can I apply Lime Wash in a high traffic area?
  Yes, provided the finish is covered with a clear protective coating such as Special Effects Clear Coat. (We generally do not recommend any texture effects in heavy traffic areas.)
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Metals and Patinas
Metallic glaze is formulated for use in many different types of applications.
   
1. How is a variable, mottled effect achieved?
  If you allow each separate sponge application to "set or dry" slightly there will be less tendency of the glazes blending.
2. Can I get a solid metal effect using the Translucent Metallic Glazes?
  Yes, brushing several light coats and allowing each to dry 4-6 hours can obtain a solid appearance. If covering a much lighter or darker base color try a background base coat first.
3. Can these finishes be used in exterior applications?
  Metallic glazes were designed for interior use. If several coats of McCloskey Man O War Marine Spar Varnish are used, exterior applications are possible. Please note that Spar Varnish is very yellow/amber in color and may change the look of some colors.
4. Is a clear protective finish required for this application?
  While not absolutely necessary, varnish will give the appearance of a more aged effect. Water based clear coatings such as Special Effects Clear Coat can also be used over metallic finishes.
5. How do I get the aged metallic effect?
  First, apply your choice of metallic glaze on the wall with a roller. Then use a wallpaper smoothing brush in a sweeping arc motion to create the pattern. Allow the glaze to dry completely. Then, use a dry, clean rag to rub on Asphaltum Aging Glaze in a small circular pattern. The metallic glaze will take on an aged or burnished effect.
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Opal And Pearl Glazes
These glazes are translucent and somewhat luminescent glaze formulas, which produce a shimmery effect when combined with any other technique.
   
1. Can these glazes be used with any of the faux finishing techniques?
  Yes, these colors offer a different effect regardless of what technique they are used with. Overall effect is controlled by how heavy an application is used.
2. Can the Opal and Pearl glazes be used on their own for a technique?
  Yes, Sponging and Ragging are the most popular combinations with opal and pearl glazes. The application gives the surface a sort of shiny shimmery reflection. These glazes show up best on curved surfaces where the color shift is most prominent.
3. Is a clear finish required over these two glazes?
  Not always but follow general guidelines for high traffic applications. Special Effects Clear Coat may be used, but may dull the color-shift appearance.
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Porcelain Crackle
A technique to give an aged appearance.
   
1. How does Porcelain Crackle work?
  First, apply the Base Coat and allow to dry thoroughly. Then, apply the Porcelain Crackle glaze generously with a foam brush in an "X" pattern. Do not overwork the glaze! As the clear crackle glaze dries, fine cracks will appear on the surface of the Base Coat.
2. How do I get larger or smaller cracks with the Porcelain Crackle?
  Generally, the heavier the Porcelain Crackle Glaze is applied, the larger the crackle pattern will be. A smaller amount of glaze will yield a finer crackle pattern. Do not use too little glaze or you may not have enough to crackle the paint.
3. How do I make the cracks in the Porcelain Crackle more prominent?
  Because the cracks are the same color as the Base Coat you will need to highlight them. Allow the crackle to dry at least 24 hours, and then rub in Aging glaze in your choice of Asphaltum (for lighter colored Base Coats) or Pickling White (for darker colored Base Coats). Or, for a colorful look use the Translucent Color glazes. Use a dry, clean rag and rub on the glaze in a circular pattern.
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Rag Rolling / Ragging
A freehand technique done by crumpling, and rolling rags onto the surface. A negative technique produces less dramatic effects.
   
1. Can Rag Rolling be done in a bathroom, kitchen, or other high traffic areas?
  Yes, all that is needed is Special Effects Clear Coat, a clear protective coating. This is available in different sheen levels from flat to high-gloss.
2. Can more than one color be used in the same application?
  Yes, this is very popular. This is usually done with a darker color first, which is allowed to dry, followed by a second lighter color for contrast.
3. Can this technique be done on floors?
  We generally do not recommend McCloskey Special Effects to be used on floors. An alternative is to try to achieve the look you want using a quality floor paint. If you do choose to use Special Effects glazes on a floor, the finish must be top coated with either a water or oil-based clear floor coating. Some clear coat finishes are yellow or amber in color, and may affect the final look.
4. Can this finish be painted over in years to come?
  Yes, if strong colors were used, a stain blocking primer would help in shifting to a lighter color scheme.
5. What is the difference between Rag Rolling and Ragging? What effect do I get with the Ragging Roller Cover?
  For Rag Rolling, you soak the rag with the chosen glaze, ring it out, then roll/twist it into a cylinder. You then roll the cylinder on the wall. For Ragging, you merely bunch the rag up in your hand and use a pouncing motion similar to sponging the surface. This method is ideal for getting into tight spaces such as walls. The Ragging Roller has a twisted cloth cover. It is used like a standard paint roller. Use the roller in a random fashion. Do not rag roll stripes on the wall.
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Suede Impressions & Sand Tones
Both Suede Impressions and Sand Tones are two coat application products.
   
1. Can either of these finishes be applied in high traffic or kitchen applications?
  We do not recommend either Suede Impressions or Sand Tones for kitchen projects. Suede Impressions and Sand Tone effects can be used in high traffic areas provided Special Effects Clear Coat is applied to the surface. Note: Colors may appear darker once coated.
2. How can lap lines be avoided when applying Sand Tones coats with the roller?
  When the first coat is applied with a ½" nap roller, the finish can be prone to lapping if too much roller pressure is used. When the second coat is applied, switch to using a 3/8" nap roller, as it will be easier to control. For large square footage areas, make sure to watch for collection of grit at the ends of the roller.
3. How is the Suede effect created?
  Apply the first coat of Suede Impressions using a roller and allow it to dry for 4 to 6 hours. Apply the second coat with a random overlapping "X" brushing technique. Use both the wide and narrow sides of the brush to Brush marks left on the surface is what produces the Suede Effect.
4. Can either of these finishes be used for floor applications?
  No, these coatings are not recommended for any type of walking surface. They would wear rapidly and have possible adhesion problems.
5. Can these coatings be combined with other techniques and finishing techniques?
  Yes. Unique results can be achieved with Sponging techniques and, in some cases, dragging projects. Be careful with high traffic applications as these finishes can burnish easily. Lime Washing over either Sand Tones or Suede Impressions produces nice subtle effects. Always test your technique before beginning your project.
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Sponging
A very popular look, achieved with either positive or negative technique that combines easily with other techniques.
   
1. How many colors can be used?
  You are limited only by your imagination. Usually darker tones are applied first, followed by lighter shades. This can be altered and incorporated into many different faux finishing techniques. Dark colors may also be applied last as a spot or accent color.
2. Where can this technique be applied?
  Sponging can be done in kitchen and bath areas in addition to many other living spaces. Glazes are fairly durable on their own, but a clear protective coating such as Special Effects Clear Coat may still be desired for increased durability in high traffic areas.
3. Is it easy to paint over a sponged technique?
  Depending on the intensity of the colors that were used, a stain blocking primer may be needed prior to painting.
4. Can Sponging be done on a ceiling?
  Although certainly possible, be aware of the difficulty of overhead work. Do not saturate the sponge with glaze or it may drip. Try lighter more subtle effects as opposed to dark or bright colors.
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Stippling
An additive or subtractive technique, which is good for hiding and for use on textured surfaces.
   
1. Can you do a Stippling technique on a textured surface?
  Yes, but expect to use more glaze when doing a positive application. Negative effects may be more difficult when removing glaze from the surface.
2. Which is more difficult to do, positive or negative Stippling?
  Positive Stippling is very difficult to apply evenly across an entire wall.
3. What if a project is too light without any effect?
  First check color combination or try applying more glaze to the surface. If performing a negative effect, tap very lightly with brush.
4. How is shadowing done from top to bottom when Stippling on a vertical surface?
  The color scheme must first be established with the lightest contrast color at the top, mid-tone in the center area, and darkest color at the bottom.
5. Can this technique be combined with other finishing techniques?
  Stippling can be used with almost any other application, wherever a softening, or slight blending effect is needed. Many times Stippling is used with Colorwashing.
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Venetian Plaster
Create the look of fine Italian marble.
   
1. What is the difference between McCloskey Special Effects Venetian Plaster and older products?
  Venetian Plaster is a synthetic acrylic material that handles easier and gives a smoother finish than traditional cement based plasters of old. It is translucent in appearance and can be seen through until built up in thickness. Most applications will be 2-3 separate layers depending on the desired effect. The surface can then be burnished in areas where a glossy, polished look is wanted. Burnishing is done with Venetian Plaster Spatulas, available for the product.
2. Will Venetian Plaster bridge cracks?
  No. Underlying cracks will show through. Venetian Plaster is a hard inflexible coating that once cured and adhesion problems could result on or around the cracked area. This product should not be used as a patching compound, filler or for repairing imperfections on surfaces.
3. Can I use any base coat?
  We recommend applying Venetian Plaster over a dull finish, either a vinyl acrylic primer or flat wall paint. If using a primer, watch to see there is no "sheen" when dry, if so, lightly sand with (100-120) grit sandpaper and remove dust and particles before application.
4. Why do I have dark and light areas in my surface?
  Color variations will appear throughout the surface depending on the amount of burnishing and dry time between applications. Multiple layer techniques can produce several shades of the same color; different drying rates and burnished portions will help to create more depth in the appearance. Multiple layer or color techniques can be accomplished but do require much more time to complete all ideas should be practiced thoroughly from start to finish before moving to the final project.
5. Can I color match into Venetian Plaster?
  No. The colors available with Venetian Plaster were laboratory formulated.
6. My finish cracked. What happened?
  The application of plaster needs to be done in very thin coats. If applied too thick, Venetian Plaster will crack as it dries. If this occurs, the surface should be allowed to dry thoroughly (24hrs+) then sanded smooth before beginning the next coat. This next and any successive coats should be applied via the Venetian Plaster Spatula.
7. Do I have to use protective finish? Can I use a urethane?
  We recommend protective finish especially in areas that are subjected to high traffic or moisture. Water on the surface, without a protective layer, will discolor the appearance of the surface by leaving dark spots. Wait at least 4 hours before applying the Venetian Plaster Protective Topcoat product. This material can also be burnished like the plaster itself to deliver a high gloss. You can use a water-based polyurethane as a protective coating instead, but the gloss of the finish will be uniform and not offer the random sheen differences of the trowled Venetian Plaster Protective Topcoat. This random gloss, with dull looking spots gives an appearance much like real marble.
8. Can I use Venetian Plaster outdoors or as a floor finish?
  No. This product is formulated for interior decorative use only; it is not designed to hold up to exterior conditions or the abrasion of foot traffic even with the use of a protective clear coating. High moisture concentrations such as shower enclosures should be avoided as the excessive moisture can cause numerous problems with the finish.
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Weathered Crackle Glaze
An instant aging technique.
   
1. My Weathered Crackle finish didn't crack, what happened?
  What topcoat was used? We recommend McCloskey Flat Coat or a low-grade flat finish? A high quality solid paint must be used in this application in order for the finish to crack properly. Premium quality products have a binder (glue) content that is too high. Lower grades and contractor finishes usually work well but always practice first. Other possibilities are that the glaze or topcoat was overworked, or there was too much time between coats.
2. The Weathered finish coat pulled away when I applied the topcoat of paint?
  After the flat coat is applied, it begins to "float" on top of the glaze. When applying with a brush, make one stroke, one direction, one time. If an area is missed, don't try go back to touch up. The topcoat begins to" float" on top of the glaze soon after it's application. If it is re-touched, it will pull away from the glaze layer.
3. Can I spray apply the glaze or the topcoat?
  The products are not designed to be sprayed.
4. Can the glaze or topcoat be rolled?
  Yes, but make sure not to overlap any rolled passes when applying the topcoat flat film. Roll slowly when applying the glaze, as it is thick, viscous, and prone to pitting. A 3/16"- ¼" nap roller should be sufficient for most projects but switch to a 3/8" or medium for larger areas.
5. How do I fix areas that don't look right?
  Sand the flat finish away from the area and clean with a damp cloth to remove dust. Re-apply Weathered Crackle Glaze to the area and allow to dry 1-4 hrs. With a brush or roller, re-apply the topcoat flat finish using the one stroke, one direction, one time technique. If an area is missed, allow the coat to crack and dry overnight re-touching with a small brush the following day.
6. Can the finish be covered over to change decor?
  First, sand any texture that might require smoothing. Then, prime the entire surface with an oil-based primer and allow to dry for 24 hrs. Re-apply any choice of topcoats.
7. How does Weathered Crackle work?
  This technique has three layers. The bottom layer is the Base Coat. The middle layer is the clear Weathered Crackle Glaze. The top layer is the topcoat of Flat Paint. The topcoat of Flat Paint will crack, showing the Base Coat underneath. Choose contrasting Base Coat and Flat Paint colors for a dramatic effect.
8. Why do I have to let the Weathered Crackle Glaze dry for a specific amount of time?
  After liberally applying the Crackle Glaze, it should set for 1-4 hours before you apply the Flat Paint topcoat. The glaze should not be wet. If it sets up too long before you apply the Flat Paint, there is a chance that the Flat Paint will not crack. If you do wait longer than four hours, you should reapply the glaze, then wait and apply the Flat Paint.
9. For weathered crackle, what does "overwork" the glaze or paint mean?
  Overwork basically means over brushing or over rolling. Once the weathered crackle glaze is on the surface, do not go back over it. If you do keep working the glaze, there is a chance that the process will not work and the glaze will not crack. The same holds true for the topcoat of Flat Paint. Apply the paint in one direction and leave it alone, do not keep brushing or rolling to smooth it out. Remember, it will crack anyway, so it doesn't need to be perfectly applied.
10. What difference does it make in the final Weathered Crackle effect if I use a brush or roller to apply the Flat Paint?
  Using a roller to apply the Flat Paint will cause a finer crackle pattern. Using a brush will create a more pronounced crackle effect. Be careful if you are using a roller. Only roll on the paint in one direction. Do not go back over the paint already put on the surface, or it may roll back onto the roller.
11. When I put the topcoat of flat paint on the Weathered Crackle Glaze, the glaze seems to soften underneath. Is this okay?
  The latex flat paint is basically reactivating the Crackle Glaze. This is not a problem. Just be careful not to paint back into an area already done or you could ruin the crackle effect.
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Colorwashing
A blending application that involves blending glazes on surfaces.
   
1. How many different colors can be combined when Colorwashing?
Most people use one to three colors. However, any number of colors can be incorporated into this technique. Make sure to keep in mind that the more colors that are used, the more quickly you will have to work, being this is a wet on wet technique.
2. What is a 'wet on wet' technique?
A 'wet on wet' technique means that you do not let one color of glaze dry before applying the next color. The result is blended color.
3. Can Colorwashing be done over a textured finish?
  Be aware that a textured surface will hold more color within the texture making it difficult to smoothly blend colors. Colorwashing is great over Sculpture Stone, Sculpture Paste and Crackle Paste. We do not recommend Colorwashing over Sandtones or Suede Impressions.
4. Can this effect be combined with others techniques to achieve a custom look?
  Certainly. The most common combinations with Colorwashing are Sponging, and Ragging, but just about anything can be incorporated. Multiple layers and techniques can be combined to achieve many different effects. Make sure to try your chosen technique on practice boards first.
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Dragging- Linen Weave
An elegant, slightly textured, effect producing a striped appearance.
   
1. Can I do this technique in a large area?
  Yes, but keep in mind how many different brush passes it will require to cover the surface. Using a large wallpaper pasting brush will help to cover the most surface area per drag. We recommend the Dragging Brush in smaller areas.
2. How do I get the Linen Weave effect?
  After first performing a vertical dragging technique, allow the coat to "set to dry" for a few minutes. Test in a hidden area with a horizontal brush stroke to see if the brush stroke "holds" and doesn't smear the vertical dragged area. Continue with horizontal brush strokes.
3. How do I make the effect less dramatic?
  Using a softening brush or a dry cheesecloth, gently brush over the wet surface to blend or soften the edges. You can also use a dry cheesecloth or a damp sponge to pounce on the surface lightly.
4. Why do I have to use the special Dragging Brush?
  This brush, with its long, flexible bristles, creates the soft, non-uniform lines needed for the effect. The bristles of the brush actually drag along the surface to remove the glaze. Keep the stripes parallel by using a steady hand and standing directly in front of the wall area that you are dragging. The handle of the brush should be angled slightly downward to allow for flexibility in the brush bristles. It is important to keep the brush clean. Wipe it off with a clean rag after each drag.
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Fresco / Leather
A multiple glazed technique for a textured look.
   
1. How do I achieve the Fresco and Leather looks?
  Use the Colorwashing technique. For these two techniques, you will use multiple glazes over a dry Base Coat. It is important that the first applied glazes are still wet while you are adding other color glazes. This allows them to blend together.
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